Chanel haute couture makes a subdued ode to Parisian elegance in fall-winter collection

By Thomas Adamson, The Associated Press on July 4, 2023.

PARIS (AP) – Models did their best to strut the cobblestoned banks of the Seine Tuesday as Chanel showed off its fall-winter collection and celebrated the soul of Paris.

Here are some highlights of Tuesday’s fall couture collections, including when The Associated Press caught up with French actress Clemence Poesy.

CHANEL’S PARIS

“This collection is the portrait of a sensitive yet bold Parisienne,” said Virginie Viard, Chanel’s creative director. “It’s like standing on a line between strength and delicacy.”

Tuesday’s assembly of tweeds, silk chiffons, organza and inlaid lace, in a myriad of floral and graphic motifs, was a testament to Viard’s vision of this rich and feminine universe.

Despite the sparkle and gleam of golden heels and buttons, the collection embraced a comforting simplicity.

Assured yet understated colors, flat-pleated golden tweed skirts, masculine-inspired overcoats, and delicately structured jackets all played into the subtle allure of the show. A standout piece was a dark blue asymmetrical coat-skirt with feathery tulle cascading from the lapel, fusing asymmetry with Chanel’s codes of rigor.

At one point, a model sauntered down the runway walking a black Alsatian dog, a seemingly whimsical addition that had onlookers snapping away on their cameras. But perhaps the most quintessential Parisian touch was a fruit basket – a homage to the Parisienne of the 1970s.

Viard described her approach as, “Handing down emotions, bringing the most unlikely elements together, doing things your own way, just dreaming.” And through this collection, she masterfully transported us all to Paris, offering an emotional tribute to the enduring allure of the Parisienne, right on the quayside of the Seine.

POESY ON CHANEL’S BOOKSTALLS: “˜NOT YOUR USUAL BOUQUINISTE!

French actress and “Harry Potter” alum, Clémence Poésy was in attendance at Chanel, and it seems the allure of the Seine-side “bouquinistes” had her under a spell. The scene, recreated by the house, was a charming tribute to Paris’ iconic riverside bookshops, so beloved by locals and tourists alike.

“There was a Parisian essence, being on the quayside of the Seine and having the bouquinistes in the beginning,” Poésy told the AP, her eyes alight with the magic of the show. “It felt like traveling through many eras of Parisians.”

The actress was especially enchanted by the French stalwart’s playful nod to Paris’ past, which invoked images of both the ’70s and new wave cinema. But it was the bouquinistes – a regular fixture of her weekends – that truly captivated her.

“You stroll along the Seine and go into all these vintage and secondhand bookshops along the river and bridges,” she explained, recalling her routine. “You usually find something you would never buy anywhere else.”

Chanel’s unique on-brand installation, she chuckled, was decidedly “not your usual bouquiniste.” She added, with a fond smile, “I hope it stays there forever. It’s such a precious thing.”

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