Milan fashion celebrates girl power at Gucci, Cormio, Tod’s
By Colleen Barry, The Associated Press on February 24, 2023.
MILAN (AP) – Designers tapped female power on the third day of Milan Fashion Week, previewing collections for next fall and winter. At Cormio, it was girl power as exemplified by a youth soccer team who lent their field as the runway venue and halted practice to watch. At Andreadamo, the southern Italian designer challenged the myth of Eve as the bringer of original sin. And Gucci constructed a new female archetype during its interim, between creative directors phase. Highlights from runway shows on Friday, the third day of mostly womenswear collections: GUCCI DRAWS ON PAST AS IT LOOKS AHEAD The first post-Alessandro Michele and pre-Sabato De Sarno Gucci womenswear show left the fashion world in a state of suspended animation, wondering where the brand will ultimately go. The collection designed by the Gucci team – many of whom have worked for two decades at the house – drew on the heritage they have helped create. The notes cited Tom Ford’s sensual colors from the 1990s. There were even hints of Michele’s eccentric flourish, just months after he stepped down. But probably most significant at this moment of palette cleansing was a strong tide of Gucci basics, with a pragmatic streak. They included 1990s cut suits with broad shoulders and easy fit trousers or wide-cut jeans with men’s shirting, worn with an ample overcoat and accompanied by a big all-purpose handbag. Sheers otherwise dominated the runway, revealing Gucci-branded thongs and fishnet stockings in bright shades through the garments. The looks were for the bold and body-confident as they left little to the imagination. The Gucci team provided many ample furry coats to provide cover to one’s destination. Looks were finished with kitten heels, some with furry accents and rounded double-G heels. The Italian rock sensation Maneskin, which has frequently been dressed by Gucci, was on hand for the show. CORMIO PROMOTES GIRL POWER Designer Jezabelle Cormio presented a collection that mixes the girlie – ruffles, bows and ribbons – with the athletic, in the form of indoor pitch soccer shoes and soccer ball-shaped bags. All of the Cormio brand looks were easy to wear and move in, with manifold layering possibilities, underlining the Gen-Z staple of easy comfort and self-styling. Dresses stretched over the form. Knitwear with raised argyle pattern were layered prettily with super-cropped sweaters with ruffled draining. The star was the collection’s motif, seen on stretch dresses and pleated denim mini skirts worn with knee socks – caught somewhere between girlhood and the grownup world. ANDREADAMO SPRINGS FROM ITALY’S SOUTH Andrea Adamo is here to say that someone from a small town in the southern Italian region of Calabria can make it on the Milan runway. Even if the fashion world kind of already knew that, from the Versaces. In that tradition, he presents power looks for his Andreadamo grand with grommets and leather, tulle and knitwear that swaddle the form. Tulle wrapped over knitwear, encasing it mummy like. Grommet-covered nude dresses finished with a mermaid flair. Andamo also puts volumes in big boots that engulf the knees or trailing pant hems. The motif of the season is a fig leaf. And a representative “Eve” closed the show in a nude bodysuit with appropriately placed metallic dig leaves. Original sin flouted. Adamo said the collection paid homage to his native city, Crotone, and its fragile mountainsides, represented in the earth tone colors. He dedicated it to his seamstress grandmother, who didn’t get to see him make it to the big northern fashion city. Standing in front of his mood board and eyeing details on each model before the show, Adamo wiped away a tear in her memory. “This is a homage to my city to show that even from a small city in the south you can dream,” he said. TOD’S WARMS UP FOR NEXT WINTER Fashion met art for Tod’s runway show for next fall and winter, set among the towering re-enforced concrete structures titled “The Seven Heavenly Palaces” by Anselm Kiefer. Outerwear is central to the latest collection by creative director Walter Chiapponi, from floor-sweeping parkas to cropped bombers. The clean lines in warm monotones put the emphasis on functionality and artisanal detailing: miniskirts were paired with ribbed knit shirts with leather detailing and a close-toe sling-back shoe while dresses cinched at the waist, mimicking a parka, and were worn with Teddy bear ballet flats in shearling. This is an urban wardrobe that translates easily into the office. Despite the early morning call, the runway show was a celeb-fueled affair, including an international array of actresses: Kathryn Newton from the U.S., Milly Alcock from Austrialia, Liu Shishi from China and Nana Eikura from Japan, as well as South Korean singer Joy. 28-27
